Gillian Horsup: 'The items I buy have to be distinctive'

Gillian Horsup in her stand 

Gillian Horsup has been buying and selling vintage jewellery and accessories in London and the UK for 35 years. Before moving to Alfies Antique Market this summer: she previously shared a stand with Lola of Unicorn in the Mews at Grays Antiques.  Gillian, Lola and the rest of The Vintage Modes collective are now based on the Second Floor of  Alfies Antiques Market.

We asked her about how she first started in the vintage world...

A view at Gillian's stand 

Gillian please tell us how did you start trading in vintage pieces?

I have been trading for 35 years. I started in the vintage world by collecting myself. I lived in the East end of London and used to go to jumble sales as there were lots around my area. I slowly got interested in all sorts of antiques and in particular Art Deco pieces, mostly jewellery. I had a young family and I've done various jobs- I worked in teaching and as a secretary. At the same time I started doing fairs. I don’t know how I did it. But I did it. I’ve been everywhere. I’ve done Covent Garden Market, Greenwich Market, and I had a shop for years in Camden Passage. When that closed down I moved to Grays Mews and was then trading with Unicorn from Bond street.

Could you tell us what has changed in the vintage world throughout this time?

There aren't as many Antique Events on any more and the number of markets is shrinking. Alfies is great because it is a dedicated space. I’ve done various things but in the end I decided I wanted to be indoors. My family changed  and I didn’t want to carry things anymore-I still end up carrying. What has changed all those years is different shopping patterns but most startlingly is the venues. It’s difficult to find Art Deco events in the London area anymore because the venues are so expensive. People want variety and here we have a bit of everything-  glasses, compacts, ring boxes, fans, pins, hats, bags, jewellery from pearls to early plastic.

We are very intrigued to know how do you choose your stock?

I buy anything that catches my eye, and anything I like. We have such a variety of customers that I can’t restrict myself to a specific era or style. I used to specialise in Art Deco, but it doesn’t pay to be a specialist anymore. I look for items with good style and of good quality- I don’t like boring.

What do you consider boring?

I consider boring anything that I see lots of or that I do not notice at all. The items I buy have to be distinctive in their specific field and a little different. They have to stand out. They have to say hello to me.

Would you like to choose a piece for us that you're particularly fond of and tell us something about it?

My favourite items at the moment are Czech glass jewellery. I love items that people have taken care in the making of. You are dealing with objects created by skilled workers and skilled designers.



Interviewed 21st August 2018 by Titika Malkogeorgou

We've photographed some of our favourite distinctive items now available in Gillian's shop...

Vintage green and gilt chains earrings

Gold Tone Diamante Snake Brooch

Lea Stein Half Colerette Brooch 

Gillian Horsup at Vintage Modes | Second Floor, S057/58 | gillian@horsup.globalnet.co.uk | 02074998121| www.gillianhorsup.com | Instagram @gillianhorsup | @gillianhorsupvintagejewellery 

Linda Bee: I love quality but I am not a classicist

Linda Bee has been trading with Bennie Gray’s businesses for most of her life. She has been part of Alfies, Barrett street market, Grays Antiques, and now she is back in Alfies and has joined forces with the Vintage Modes ladies.

Linda Bee in her stand

I asked her about her early days in the vintage trade.

I was very shy as a child and when I changed my school from Soho to Victoria my new teachers said that I should go to Art School. I wanted to but I did not want to leave my friends. I was creative and I wanted to do creative things, but mostly get involved with fashion. I wanted to go into hairdressing or design. Instead I ended up working in an office. However, soon I was running a hat shop. That experience changed my life. It was the seventies. I moved to Chiltern street. There were all sorts of interesting shops there and the Chiltern Fire House was still a working fire station.

I was working for Diane Logan and my life changed overnight. Diane Logan was the sister-in-law of Andrew Logan, the artist. Through them I met fascinating people and glamorous personalities of the London art scene, Andrew Logan the artist, Pauline Stone the model, Fenella Fieldings the actress, Derek Jarman the film director, Divine the actor. At the time Diane (Logan) would love going to jumble sales and bring back things into the shop to sell. It was all sorts of extraordinary objects.

In my break I used to go to Barrett Street, near Oxford Street, which was a market owned by Alfies' founder Bennie Gray. It was very similar to Alfies, but there were also stalls outside on the street which people could rent very cheaply. Then I could sell my findings from the market in the hat shop. I was desperate to become a dealer of vintage fashion and I had this boyfriend who said to me "Bee you can be anything you want to be!". He really encouraged me to explore my passion for fashion, so I rented a unit in Alfies as soon as it opened, he built it for me. I was there the very first day Alfies opened. I was located near the entrance, on the ground floor. But I was inexperienced and didn’t really like it. A friend of mine offered to buy the stall and I moved my new business to Barrett street. I carried on trading there until Bennie sold the market and all we moved to Grays Antiques. 

I don’t have any difficulty choosing stock. It’s more a matter of having the resources to expand my collection the way I like it. When I was little and my father wanted to take me out to the park, I always wanted to go and look at the shops on Bond Street. When I read Collette this phrase impressed me: "The shop windows of Paris are my changing museums, and although I love museums, I find that shops reflect life more. They inspire me".

My collection is multifaceted. If you are artistic you can’t be limited. I am inspired by all artistic expressions in art and design. I love interiors and dressing people. I would describe my collection as eclectic and very theatrical. I like quality and haute couture, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Dior. But I especially like anything that catches my eye, which could be inexpensive 1950s but with great design. My customers are themselves people of the theatre, other dealers, Americans, Europeans, people who appreciate glamour. I am just not a classicist!    

We had a browse around Linda's shop and spotted lots of covetable objects, see below...

Linda Bee at Vintage Modes | Second Floor, S048/49 | 07956 276 384 | lindabeeretro@gmail.com

Written by Titika Malkogeorgou